A complete source for the
best New England Clam Chowder and favorite Clam Chowder recipes
available.
New England clam, Manhattan red, and corn--that's the chowder story,
right? Wrong. In 50 Chowders, award-winning chef Jasper White
explores a surprisingly wide range of these savory one-pot meals while also
offering chowder history and folklore, in-depth ingredient profiles, cooking
tips, and technique instruction. (Did you know that chowder is best "cured"
for one hour to three days after it's made to allow flavors to meld?)
Probably the last word on the subject, the book delivers the kind of
comprehensive culinary profile that enlightens even seasoned cooks. Everyone
will find its recipes tempting and approachable. Beginning with a history of
chowder--White sets its birth in the 18th century, citing among its possible
"inventors" Native Americans, French or English fishermen, or settlers in
Canada and Massachusetts--the book then explores typical chowder ingredients
such as the all-important salt pork. Recipes follow for classic seafood
chowders and for "farmhouse" brews such as Spring-Dug Parsnip, Shaker Fresh
Cranberry Bean, and Nantucket Veal. Other chowder newcomers include Digby
Bay Scallop Chowder with Cabbage and Bacon, Lightly Curried Mussel Chowder,
and Bermuda Fish Chowder, which is served, deliciously, with a pitcher of
rum. White also provides a chapter on chowder companions such as common
crackers and includes recipes for Cheddar Cheese Biscuits and Skillet Corn
Bread, among other go-withs. With eight pages of color photos and numerous
technique illustrations, the book gives a humble but essential American dish
its full due at last. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
"In order to understand chowder, you must move away from the image of the
pasty-white clam chowder restaurants serve in a small cup with a bag of
crackers." For White, the popular chef of New England cuisine (Lobster at
Home, etc.), chowder is not a soup; it's a hearty dish containing big chunks
of fish, potatoes and vegetables in a lake of steaming broth. After perusing
this competent and attractive book, many readers will be converted to his
view. White begins with a complete history of chowder and a host of helpful
tips on selecting the basic ingredients: fish, shellfish, salt pork and
bacon, potatoes, onions, cream, thyme, corn, etc. His instructions for
filleting fish are excellent, and the rundown of various types of fish used
in chowderAcomplete with illustrationsAbeats out similar sections in many
specialized fish cookbooks. (Another chapter contains instructions for
digging up your own clams.) Still, the beauty of chowder lies in its humble
character and simplicity, and White respects that too much to ruin chowder
by making it fussy. He provides excellent version of such classics as Corn
Chowder, New England Fish Chowder and Manhattan Red Claw Chowder. The
problem is that because the dish's basic ingredients are so common, many of
the recipes resemble one another: only a devotee could distinguish the
flavors of New England Clam (Quahog) Chowder, Steamer Clam Chowder and Razor
Clam Chowder. And the closest thing to quirky is a Bermuda Fish Chowder with
Crab, made with cloves and rum. Still, White convincingly showcases the ease
with which these tasty, filling meals can be prepared, and his careful
explanations go a long way toward resurrecting chowder's place in fine New
England cuisine.
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